Installing Strap Buttons on Guitars
Installing a strap button on a guitar or other instrument is by no means rocket science but it pays to be cautious and mindful of what you're doing. This article will detail the way I do it, the tools I use and tips for proper installation. If I showed you some pictures of do-it-yourselfers gone wrong you would quickly understand how such a little job can create such big problems. 
What's needed:
 | The strap button, ya think? Mounting screw and felt washer.
|
| An awl for marking our position.
|
| A tapered drill bit that matches the mounting screw.
|
| Wax for lubricating the screw.
|
| A countersink to prevent finish chip.
|
I take a few steps that some may consider needless but do so to insure a perfect outcome every time. While my technique may be overkill for some, other's will appreciate my attention to detail and assumption that caution is never a waste of time. There's something about drilling a tiny hole in a $10K guitar that can make even an avid woodworker squirm. CHOOSE THE POSITION - Location, location, location If you don't get this right it's all downhill from here. When choosing the spot to mount a button it must pass a few simple test....
| Will the hole I'm about to drill contact a neck bolt? There are more and more manufactures using bolts in their construction and you need to know where they're located before drilling a hole. Most of the time a cover plate or label will be used on the end of the neck block to conceal the bolts. You need to find out first where the bolts are located.
|
| Will the button interfere with my fretting hand? You definitely don't want the button mounted so close to the fingerboard that you and it will make constant contact when playing up the neck.
|
| Does the position of the button hold my strap securely? Buttons should be pointed towards the floor, not the ceiling. Placing a button on the wrong side of the neck is a common problem for do-it-yourselfers.
|
Once you are sure about it's position you can mark the spot and prepare to drill the hole. As I mentioned above I use a tapered drill bit, this ensures the screw has gripping power thru it's entire length. This is a pretty important screw and we want to make sure it's going to hold for years...oops, forever!
Typically (that does not mean always) the button will be at a distance half way between the heel and bottom of the fingerboard.
| 
| Choose your position and mark the spot with your awl. You can also place tape on the spot and make a mark on the tape. | This tapered bit matches the core of the screw and drilling depth is marked by a piece of tape. |
What's with the countersink? Certain finishes tend to be extremely "chippy". No matter how cautious one is with the drill bit, some finishes will try to lift and chip while drilling. A tiny twist of the countersink bevels the finish away from the drilling hole and helps prevent the bit from lifting the finish. This is a simple, light handed touch, merely to bevel the finish, not create a countersink in the wood. I may repeat this more than once if the finish warrants it. With truly problematic finishes I may even run lacquer thinner around the hole to melt down any finish that wants to lift. 
When installing screws into an instrument for the first time I often choose to place a bit of wax on the screw to cut back on friction. Once a screw is lubricated very lightly with wax it should go in firmly but not so forcefully you risk cracking the neck. That is an even greater concern when drilling into the end grain like on the flat, wide heel pictured below. Common Problems & No-no's
| Drilling into a neck bolt which makes it necessary to plug the hole and drill another. That could ruin your whole day ah?
|
| Placing the button on the wrong side of the neck. The button should be pointing to the floor not the ceiling.
|
| Drilling too small of a hole and splitting the heel when installing the screw. Feel the pain!
|
| Drilling too large of a hole. Or... watching your peghead break off when the neck plummets to the floor after the strap button popped out.
|
| Taking a large chip of finish off with the drill bit.
|
| I have a flare for the dramatic huh?
|
The side of the neck heel is usually the best spot for a strap button but you will find that not all heels are shaped like the one above. Flat Wide Heels 
Here's a button that's been installed thru the heel cap. While some players may prefer this location, bare in mind that any Elvis Presley rock and roll guitar handling may cause the strap to pull away from the button. I'm sure you're familiar with the guitar straps that buckle to the endpin and then merely tie around the peghead. This style of strap does not utilize a strap button in the heel but it serves a valuable purpose.
Players of 12 string guitars or those with very heavy pegheads tend to dip towards the floor when the strap is mounted to the end block and heel, this can create a great deal of hand fatigue as your fretting hand tries to balance and support the neck. Placing the other end of your strap around the peghead can help alleviate that problem by balancing out the support.
 | 
