Bridge Replacement for Intonation Correction

This
articles describes another common repair I perform...correction
of intonation problems caused by inaccurate placement of the
original bridge or saddle.
Correct
saddle placement is essential if an instrument is ever going to
play in tune and be properly intonated. In most cases, saddles
can be reshaped to improve intonation or, the saddles slot can
be filled and moved to the proper location in the bridge to
correct a slight offset.
However,
when the correct placement of the saddle is outside our
boundaries of adjustment (saddle would end up
too close to the front edge or bridge pins), the repair is more involved
and likely
to require a replacement bridge to
correct.
As is the
case with some Martin guitars manufactured in the 70's, the
saddle/bridge is likely to be too close to the end of the
fingerboard causing sharp intonation, a
problem attributed to wear and tear on older jigs used in
production. I have however had to move bridges closer
(not further away) to improve intonation, go
figure.
After
removing the original bridge, the bridge pin holes thru the top
and bridge plate must be plugged as new ones
will be drilled.

Holes Are Plugged
In
order to cover the "footprint" of the original bridge and avoid
making a gargantuous replacement, a handmade bridge is made
which alters the position of the bridge pin holes and saddle
slot. We can't just move the saddles slot
back if doing so would place it right smack dab on top of the
bridge pin holes. And if one were to simply move the entire
bridge back, bare unfinished top would create an eyesore and
look anything but professional (ew, Jerry's
been there). There have been cases where an
oversized bridge must be made to allow for the necessary
adjustment but this is less common.
To put it simply...everything is shifted slightly closer to the
belly side of the bridge (back). The
bridge pin holes are shifted to avoid placing the saddle
terribly close to them and creating other problems.

Replica Bridge
The above
picture shows the final outcome...doesn't look too different
does it? Well, that's my goal. Most of my customers
know by now that I'm not going to be happy with some eyesore,
dead ringer replacement. If scrutinized beside a factory bridge
you will see that the difference.
Factory Bridge vs. My
Replica

Pictured above is another
example, on this particular instrument you may actually pick up
on the fact that the pickguard and bridge are touching...
that's certainly enough
to make one suspicious.
On the factory replacement, unpolished bridge above you may notice that the
factory places their bridge pin holes very near to the center
line of the bridge. That layout/design
means I can actually make a new bridge whereby I move the pins
and saddle back without making a terribly noticeable cosmetic
change, that is...in most cases.
And in all fairness, before I get emails asking how could Martin
ever do such a thing...Martin is not the only manufacturer to ever
set a bridge in the wrong position, I am
merely using them in this example.I have seen
some other manufactured instruments that were so far from correct that relocation of the bridge
would necessitate top refinishing.
Cost

In most cases Martin's
lifetime warranty will cover the cost of this repair for the original owner
of instrument if they have not been abused. (Registration or proof
of purchase is required by the factory.)
For those not covered by factory
warranty...Cost to remove original bridge, plug holes thru the
top and make a handmade replacement bridge with bone saddle
starts at $200. Fancy inlays, ivory saddle option or finish
touch up is additional.
Related Articles:
Bridges
Intonation
Saddles
Bridge Pins
Martin Warranty
Service