Neck Resets
Resetting Acoustic Guitar Necks

Types of Neck Joints and Special Considerations

Neck resetting is a fairly common repair on flattop guitars, especially on instruments 25 to 30 years old. After all those years of tension, the top and body have gone thru changes that eventually lead to higher and higher action. Luckily most major manufacturers have made neck joints that allow for fairly clean removal. But there are a few neck joints that either do not come apart without a fight or create a cosmetic mess upon removal.

While the dynamics of neck angle may be similar amongst all flat top guitars the method in which to remove and glue the neck can vary greatly. That is why it is important to be familiar with the type of neck joint used on guitars before attempting to remove them.

Special considerations:

STEP 1: Loosening the Fingerboard Extension

 Before the neck can be removed the portion of the fingerboard which glues to the top of the instrument must be separated. I use a specially designed heating blanket which matches the width of the fingerboard which allows me to place heat just where I want it.
If the fingerboard is bound with plastic binding further precautions may be necessary to insure that the delicate binding is not melted. Plastic inlays are another concern, as they will go up in a puff of smoke when heated.

With the glue softened by the heat, I use a clean, smooth spatula to separate it from the top. A clean and polished spatula is good for getting under fingerboards and bridges without scratching the tops finish. I usually keep a few close at hand and trade off when one becomes covered in crusty old glue. On older instruments with brittle finishes, masking tape can cause more of a problem than it prevents, lifting the loose lacquer from the wood, so I normally avoid it. But if I feel it is absolutely necessary I will use low tack tape as seen here.

In order to force steam into the dovetail cavity I remove the fret directly above it (usually one fret down from the body/neck joint- but I've discovered inconsistencies here on various brands). In worst case scenarios, the builder/factory will not have lined this joint up properly and fingerboard removal is necessary to locate the pocket.
The heating blanket has already heated any glue holding the fret in so it is simply removed with a pair of end nippers. If this fret will be reused care is taken not to damage it.

After the fret is removed I drill one or two holes right thru the fret slot to accommodate my steam hose. Hitting the pocket is sometimes a challenge and I must maneuver the drill bit until it drops into the gap between neck and neck block.

STEP 2: Steaming the neck loose

It takes me about 3 to 5 minutes of steaming to get the joint loose enough that it will come apart...barring any surprises! But surprises are what keeps life exciting right? Ugh, I can live without them. :)

I use lots of rags to quickly wick up moisture. Personally, I don't mask off the top while steaming. The hot steam escaping from beneath the fingerboard normally warms the lacquer on the top which can soften it and this would allow the tape to leave an impression in the finish. How do you know? Oh.... well take a guess! :) More touch up.
Dry rags draped over the body can help to keep some of the later "rainfall" from covering the finish. If the moisture makes the finish blush or turn white which is highly likely, I will give it a day or two to dry out and then polish it. Blushing is a term used to describe the white haze or cloudy appearance of a finish when it has been subjected to moisture.

On vintage instruments with thin, flaky or damaged finish the steam can prove to be troublesome and will usually require some touchup to reverse any damage it may cause. However, to avoid overheating the finish I blow air across the surface to keep the hot steam moving away from the guitar top and cool it as much as possible.
On instruments with interior truss rod nuts or bolt on necks further measures are necessary to prevent steam from entering the neck thru these holes.
On necks that are loose or ill fitting to begin with you are likely to see steam escaping from the sides or tip of the heel. This gap provides an unwelcome escape point for the steam and can cause damage to the heels finish, something that is nearly unavoidable.

STEP 3: Removing the neck

The neck pictured below came apart quickly and easily. Pressure applied to the heel with my bionic thumb was all it took to push the neck up and out of the joint.

    When the joint is fit so tightly that my thumb can't push the neck out I use what I've nick named "the sissy jig".  It anchors nicely around the body and provides a thumbscrew which can be tightened against the heel (which is protected). This way I am able to slowly apply pressure to the heel and crank the neck up and out of the joint.

"Sissy Jig" At Work
If you look closely at this photo you may also notice the "shim" shoved beneath the heel to fill a gap. Woof!
This is most definitely not the way to fit a neck.

Continued

  FAIR WARNING:

While most of the information contained on this page is written in a step by step fashion it is not intended to teach the art of neck setting, so please don't try this on your instrument.
Knowledge is great but experience is indispensable.